Where to begin - do we start on Sunday afternoon, when after having dropped the trailer at the B&B, G&R climbed in with us and we went to explore tracks leading down to the Snowy River up around Bete Bolong and Bete Bolong North to suss out good entry and exit points or just jump straight into kayaking? Hmm Well, as the latter wouldn't happen without the the 4 P's being performed I will start with Sunday afternoon.
From the B&B we headed down to and across the flood plain to the Orbost Buchan Rd which we followed up along the River. Nearing Bete Bolong we kept an eye out for the BB tennis courts which Jo Kleinitz of the Snowy River Wildernest had kindly suggested might be a suitable pull out point for us. Sure enough beside the old tennis courts club house was an easy track leading down to the river with just enough room at the end to turn the trailer - perfect, day 2 end point sorted.
Next up we drove on up to Bete Bolong North looking for the track that would lead us to Hector's track and down to the river (a handy 14.7km paddle from Sandy Point). All was going well until we started the last descent down to the Snowy whereupon Hector's Track turned from an easy two wheel drive trail into hugely degraded and eroded rocky nightmare totally unsuitable for taking a trailer down. So Plan A went out the window.
We continued on up the Orbost Buchan Rd; skipping the next access trail to the Snowy, Long Point Track, we headed for Sandy Point Track. With some trepidation we headed down it. Like Hectors Track the last pinch down to the river was very steep, but unlike Hectors it was in good condition and we had an easy trip down (however the next day G had to engage 4WD low gear or whatever it is called, to haul the empty trailer back up the hill) to the picnic area just above the river where a couple of picnic tables and fire places had recently being installed. This was a very doable start point - happy kayakers all round.
Next port of call was Snowy River Wildernest, a few kilometres upstream from Sandy Point to meet Joanne and Roddy, the delightful couple who own the retreat and check out the accommodation available for a possible next trip. Both the cottages were roomy, each had two loos, comfortable seating and most importantly, the beds passed the prod and poke test.They also had verandahs with fabulous views overlooking the River below them and across the valley. We never got around to checking out the camping area. Instead Roddy took us down to his downstream boundary to check out a slightly technical little rapid he thought might be an issue for us given R's and my lack of skill. L took one look and vetoed the idea of R & I trying even with Roddy's kind offer to help get us through. First, he said, we would have to learn some basic white water skills :( Once we've acquired them, a stay are Wildernest is a must.
After taking our leave of Joanne and Roddy we headed back toward Corringle Lake. As we drove we discussed our options. Given that Hector's Track was a no go and therefore there was no easy option to split the paddle over two days and given the river looked to have a good flow even though the level had been dropping steadily since we planned this trip, we decided that we could handle paddling from Sandy Point Track to the Tennis Courts in one day (we somehow forgot it was 23kms!).
We arrived back at our very spacious and comfortable accommodation and after unpacking and we settled in and took in our surroundings.
Whilst R&G whipped up dinner, L&I sorted out the back of the car and unloaded the three boats we wouldn't be using the next day, so we would be ready for a early departure.
Have no idea what time we did depart, but we arrived at the bottom of the Sandy Point track at 8.40am after first leaving R&G's car at the tennis courts. Having taken the boats off the trailer and loaded them with our gear it was time to brave the chill and strip down to our paddling gear and slide our boats down the steep sandy path to the edge of the mighty Snowy River!
Once all the emergency gear and rations was stowed between the three of us it was time to depart.
By 9.30am we were all on the water.
Within 40 metres of starting out we faced our first little gravel race. Having safely negotiated it, L demonstrates the 'break out'.
R&I like good little ducklings follow suit - with not nearly as good a result as L. Still neither of us falls out of our boats which is a good thing as it is still quite chilly.
With a final wave to G we head off down stream - this time trying to 'break in'
Looking back I see G still watching his intrepid beloved set off for her first real moving water experience.
The river ahead - it looks so enticing and the water is beautiful and clean.
We float with the current as L explains the importance of learning how to break in and out correctly
Although it was overcast I managed to catch the odd reflection :)
The first of several water dragons spotted by Lawrence during our paddle
Kingfisher with a little fish in its beak
Just going with the flow
appreciating
our surrounds
Checking out possible campsites as we go
Clear, grassy areas such as this are dotted along the river raising questions: why are they clear and why are they still clear?
We have encountered several little gravel races along our journey and so far we have, not without a little trepidation on R's and my part, greased down them without a problem. But the main flow on this one went into a dead tree on river right and L deemed the shallow chicken run was the route for us. R&L managed to bobble their way down, but I got stuck and no amount of heaving and poling would dislodge Bluey so I undertook my first dismount of the day.
Wall Track coming in on river left
With another gravel race (in the background) successfully negotiated, we are feeling pretty chuffed.
The sand plugs had started, but so far were not catching us out, there being enough depth for us to float over them.
Another stretch of rocky shoreline to be enjoyed
A couple of swans fly past us on their way up river
L checking out the gravel race at start of Long Point -
another one with a clearly defined V which we 'flew' gently down and which spat us out a short paddle from the Long Point beach on river right and
our 11.15am morning tea stop. The first thing L&I did was don our rain jackets to keep out the occasional cold gusts blowing up river
View across the river to a small patch of remnant rainforest; we had passed several such patches thus far, along with large sections of dry and and some wet sclerophyll forest.
Trying to be artistic
Long Point Track coming down the ridge. R went for a walk to check out the camping area and came back to report that, like Sandy Point, there were new tables and fire places, however already one fireplace had had its grill and flat plate stolen and had been left filled with empty tinnies and other assorted trash. And don't get me started on toilet paper - why can't the yoicks take it with them or burn it at least? :( :(
Anyway it was very pleasant down near the water and after a 35 minute break we took to the water once more.
R, eager as ever
We continued on downstream
enjoying the scenery and serenity
However about 20mins after leaving Long Point the sand plugs started making their presence felt and we had to weave our way down the river seeking the deeper channels
which were quite often hard up against a bank
Then suddenly the sand plug would end and we would drop off into deeper water once again
until the next plug appeared.
And so it went until, for the first time, there was no deeper channel and we had to walk, some of us farther than others! Note the sky is clearing now that some real physical effort is required!
But even R, had to walk a little way on this one.
L having alternately dragged and walked his boat (when the kayak floats obediently along behind or beside you) down and across the river to find deeper water is already back in his boat
And we hurry to catch him up (note we are back to a pebbly bottom again)
As R has proved herself to be a good channel locator, we let her go in front
With our lunch destination in sight, we heaved and poled our way over a short section of unpaddlable plug and then lent back in our seats, relieved to know that a rest was only a short paddle away.
And there it is, on river left, Wood Point campsite - with a loo it is favoured by the grey nomads in their camper trailers and is neat and tidy.
Still we had to paddle another 5 mins or so until we found a deeper lead across the now wide river.
At 1.30pm, having set up the essentials
it only remained to retrieve our lunch from the back of Bluey
Having stripped off our outer layers, we enjoyed our lunch and a rest. After 35 mins it was time to set off once more and by 2.10pm we were all on the water.
R was first on the water, keen for more gravel races - but sadly we had left them behind and luckily we were ignorant of what lay ahead of us.
A few minutes after starting off again, a cold head breeze sprung up and we clung to the shelter of the bank as much as we could
skirting hazards as we went
We passed by another possible campsite, there were many such along the stretch we were paddling, with the only access being by water :)
We were lulled by the deeper water after Wood Point and gave no more thought to sand plugs
until we reached the bottom of Hectors Track which didn't look too bad
and looked even better once around the point. Obviously very few yoicks are making it down the very steep and eroded track.
From then on the sand plugs came thick and fast, and it was a relief when you found a deeper pool between them
We paddled on, sometimes into quite strong gusts
About 3km after Hector's and at 3.00pm we pulled in for a quick leg stretch (looking back up river) and to don more layers once again - those gusts were cold - and
knowing by now the rest of our journey along this section of the Snowy of would be hard work. (I later measured it as 5.8km). Looking down river you can just see the end of the forest and the start of the cleared land.
After a 20 minute break we continued on, the sand plugs getting longer and longer and the pools between shorter and shorter
And it wasn't long before the chubbatubs were walking their boats again
The end of the forest, but not out of the woods - ha ha
As finding a deeper channel that led somewhere became increasingly difficult and sometimes heaving and poling was necessary to make it to the next bit of floatable water - even for the svelt R.
Nearly there - into deeper water
and if you made the wrong choice, the only thing left to do was walk
R&L (L having sensibly followed R) made it over this plug and patiently wait for me to drag and float my boat 100 metres or so down and across the river to join them in some slightly deeper water. Only a couple of kilometres to go now.
Even though we were out into the open country the river was still very attractive and at slightly deeper water would be a fantastic paddle.
After some more poling, heaving, paddling and walking we managed to paddle the last half km or so to our pull out point. G, wonderful man, had left the Toyota where we could easily see it from the water.
By this time R&I feared missing our exit and having to push on a couple of kms further downstream to the next pull out point. But down river still looked inviting.
We pulled in at 5.35pm and took a second to enjoy the river bathed in the early evening light.
We were beyond hurrying with the packup and loading of boats and it wasn't until just before 7.00pm that we got back to the B&B to find G had a welcoming and cheery fire burning and a yumbo dinner on the go. All we weary but very happy adventurers had to do was shower and enjoy the view from the living area while we waited for dinner. Oh Bliss. Thank you G.
Note: Leg stretch marked incorrectly. Should be pinner approx 1.5km further downstream.
Trip Notes:
Put In: Bottom of Sandy Point Track off the Orbost Buchan Road
Take Out: Old tennis courts at Bete Bolong
Water Level: .81 at McKillops Bridge
1.13 at Jarrahmond
.61 at Orbost.
23 kms
8 hrs (incs 1hr .35mins breaks)
Including breaks averaged 2.87kmph.
River level fine for Sandy Point to Wood Point, but .90+ would be better
River level too low to comfortably paddle from Wood Point to Bete Bolong
PS. In case anyone is wondering the 4P's stand for Prior Proper Planning and Preparation - which our Captain has happily ignored for most of his life.
