Waking up and gloomily looking forward to a wet camp pack up we reluctantly arose and set about dressing and getting breakfast. We soon discovered the results of the bush rats overnight activities. R's food bag had two 50c size holes eaten through the tough plastic. S&V had holes eaten in a couple of things and the rim of L's plastic camp cup had been gnawed upon.
Packing up wet tents and a sodden tarp was not fun, but at least, we thought, each boat would be 6kg lighter without the water we had carried in. At 11.30 am we pushed out our boats to commence our last paddle. We soon discovered that shedding the 6kgs of water was, along with weariness, negated by the weight of wet tents, clothes and gear.
As we paddled slowly up the lake S said she could see a bit of blue sky ahead. Personally, I thought she was barking. But sure enough by the time we reached Sawyers and pulled in for a break we were steaming in the sunshine. Parks had not updated it's website and we discovered that Sawyers is now only for day use - no camping allowed - and it has a loo.
We took to the water again at 2.00pm for what we thought would be a quick 4km side trip up Sandy Creek.
Here we sat for awhile watching a Azure Kingfisher sitting on the log in the creek.
However Sandy Creek is so enchanting we lingered far longer that we should. And after a quick stop at Sawyers it wasn't until a little before 5.00pm that we pulled into the launch site at Tallowa Dam. By 6.00pm we had the last of the boats on the trailer and were ready to return to Bendeela to drop S&V and their gear off at their car.
After that we went our different ways. Having been unable to book any accommodation in Kangaroo Valley for Friday night L, R & I had booked a two bed unit at Dolphin Sands in Vincentia, out on the coast. Reaching our accommodation about 7.30pm, we checked in, ordered takeaway, picked it up, ate it, showered and fell into blissfully comfortable beds for a long nights sleep.
On the drive home the next day R&I decided that camping was a necessary evil if one wanted to kayak such a beautiful and awe inspiring area. And was it worth going with a rain ridden forecast? Yes, it certainly was.
15.24kms
For future reference:
We each carried 6 litres of water, plus a water bottle. We only used 4-5 litres each.
Emerging wearily from our tents in the morning we were soon regaling each other with stories of our sleepless night and the reasons why. L derided our tales as gross exaggeration until he discovered the rats had got into his boat and gnawed his Contigo lid and a hole in the bottom of his water bottle.
Plans for the day were discussed as we ate breakfast. With more rain imminent it was decided that if we were going to get wet it may as well be while paddling.Slow to get going after our noisy night we made it onto the water around 11.30am and paddled on down the lake heading for Yarrunga Creek.
Just before Beehive Point and the turn into the creek thunder rolled overhead and the heavens opened. Long before we paddled the remaining two hundred metres to where we could get out we were soaked to the skin. We donned the now wet wet weather gear to guard against the sudden temperature drop and continued on our way.
Due to the thunder and occasional lightening we hugged the shoreline. Half a kilometre up the creek we entered the remains of the drowned forest and progress slowed dramatically as we cautiously paddled over the many remains of tree trunks and branches lurking just under the surface of the water, hidden by the rain and gloom - and eager to flip the unwary paddler. L called them growlers, but we each had a involuntary sound whenever contact was made. Our party of 5 contained a yelper, a gasper, a groaner, a grunter and a squeaking oh f--ker.
Before long we started to encounter the remains of the amazing stone retaining walls of the Old Meryla Road. We followed its course until it disappeared below the water and found it had emerged further on for a bit, only to disappear into the water again. The road is historically significant for two reasons. In 1818 an Indigenous man known as 'Timelong' led Charles Throsby, a white man, down an Aboriginal trail into the Kangaroo Valley. It thus became the route of the first entry into Kangaroo Valley by a white bloke. In 1896 a road was constructed by hand along the same trail and was the first road into the Valley from the Southern Highlands. When Tallowa Dam was constructed in 1976 the lower portion of the road was flooded.
As we finished examining the remains of the old road there was a break in the weather and we looked for somewhere to haul out for a break. Spotting a sandy bank at a creek mouth across from a portion of the road we paddled over and by 12.30 we were digging out our snacks.
If you look over the rock in the foreground to the far side of the creek you can see the some of retaining wall of the Old Meryla Road.
After the break we continued cautiously up the creek until entering the original watercourse where, for awhile, the growlers disappeared until the they took a new form - rocks. As the creek narrowed the surrounds developed an ancient and mystical feel - it was wonderful.
Having reached the paddlable limit
we start to turn and head back to camp.
After cautiously returning through the drowned forest and associated growlers we opened the throttle and paddled steadily back to camp through the rain. Whilst in growler territory L got way ahead of us and then stopped and patiently waited for us to catch up. As we approached he called us over - he wasn't patiently waiting for us to catch up - a growler and caught him and was holding him fast! Using my boat for leverage he managed to move his boat enough so I could paddle to the front to lift the nose and shove - and with a slight wobble or two he slid free.
Arriving back at camp around 4.00pm we discovered the tarp had sagged alarmingly however L, using his paddle as a prop soon had it to rights again. Unfortunately the cheap tents had leaked, however R's little beauty was snug and dry. Luckily for us the rain had eased just before got back as we each only had one change of dry clothes remaining and an ever growing mound of sodden ones.
After the exertions of the last three days dinner that evening was eagerly anticipated. R had the ready to eat All Day Breakfast from On Track Meals recommended by Daniel our canoe guide. With each mouthful she pronounced it delicious. L&I had a dehydrated (only 13 months past it's best by date), edible but tasteless Honey Soy Chicken and V&S a supermarket coleslaw salad (half of which they shared with us) and tuna. It is worth noting that the coleslaw was in A1 condition at the end of two days without refrigeration with the air temperature around 22-24oC. This was followed up, as on the previous night, by R's plum pudding - worth it's hefty weight in satisfaction.
Again it was early to bed and once more the rats rampaged through our belongings all night long.
It was an early start to get packed up, sorted and ready for our big adventure. After much faffing we were at last ready and drove out of Kangaroo Valley a little before 8.30am, this time headed for our launch point at Bendeela Campground. Having had a small geographical mishap we arrived at the launch site about 1/4 to 9 and set up about unloading the boats and the mountain of gear to be stowed in them. S&V, having had a bigger geographical mishap arrived somewhat later and had to unload and pack their boats as one of the school groups, in two huge canoes arrived and started unloading around them.
G then left us, taking the car and boat trailer back to our accommodation to clear up and then driving to Tallowa Dam to leave the car and trailer and pick up the car which we had left there the night before. Thank you G.
Having checked the weight of the camping gear was evenly distributed in each boat we set off at 9.45am
and headed down the lake on what turned out to be a grey but wonderfully windless day.
As you will see in the video, it wasn't long before we passed the Bendeela pumping and power station. Water is pumped 127 metres up to a pondage dam and then run back down through two 40-megawatt turbines to generate 80 megawatts of electricity.
A little further on we passed the second of the school groups we were to see that day returning to Bendeela. This group were in what looked, from a distance, like lightweight canoes from Paddle and Portage.
Despite the weight in our kayaks, the paddling in the main was easy tho' we occasionally hit patches of what we gals like to call heavy water. Around the 4.75km mark we spied at little bay with a sand bank at its head and pulled in for a break.
Continuing on we passed a few ritzy properties, lots of waterfowl skittering over the water and a young sea eagle. And always glimpses of the escarpment ahead enticing us on.
Given that L had us find and from the water check out every campsite marked on the map (for future reference and in case Hideaway was taken) we made good time and around 1.00pm and after a little searching we found Hideaway - unoccupied :)
By the time we had chosen tent sites, unloaded the boats, set up the tents etc it was quite late in the afternoon when we had lunch. As we ate the two big white canoes returned with their next bunch of school kids to set up camp at Acacia Point across the lake.
With the threat of rain looming L, R & I set about 'erecting' - 'suspending' (not sure what you call it) a large super lightweight tarp. Halfway through the process the rain started and by the time we'd finished we were soaked and the rain had largely stopped. Typical! However it served us well as, though it remained warm, there were several more patches of drizzle and rain throughout our stay.
By nine we were all in bed. If there is a downside to Hideaway it's bush rats - no possums, but lots and lots of bush rats. Except for L, who slept blissfully unaware, the rest of us lay mostly awake listening to the rats investigating our stuff. In between rat rustlings was the yipping of the resident bandicoots and a strange plopping noise on the outside of my tent which I could not identify - until I went for a midnight wee - and discovered a tree frog making free use of our tent as a hunting perch or maybe to escape the rampaging rats. And lastly the airplanes regularly rumbling loudly overhead didn't help.
However, thanks to V's recommendation we lay comfortably on our sleeping mats, sleeping bags barely needed the night being so balmy, as we lay awake listening to the sounds of nature and planes and reflecting on the pleasure of the day's paddle.
Despite the somewhat dismal forecast we left home on Monday morning, heading north for our big adventure. Having stopped at Ulladulla to meet up with G&R for lunch at Native Cafe we then drove on to our accommodation in Kangaroo Valley.
Soon after the cars were unloaded and the cottage explored we walked next door to Paddle and Portage Canoes to seek information conditions on the lake and more importantly to check out their range of fabulous Swift Canoes.
The staff were very welcoming and immediately most helpful. We learnt the section of river between Hampden Bridge and Bendeela was at a suitable level to paddle, but not without risk of damage to the Deltas. However although Paddle and Portage don't hire out canoes for this section we could easily hire plastic kayaks from another business in town. Then Daniel spent over an hour with L&I showing us the range of Swift Canoes and talking through which boats might suit us and why.
Having ascertained we planned to paddle from Bendeela to Tallowa Dam, camping for a couple of nights along the way, Dan then pulled out a map and showed us the best and most secluded campsites for our little group and warning us there were quite a few school groups out on the lake who would be at the larger campsites.
Longing to paddle the Kangaroo River between Hampden Bridge and Bendeela I asked Dan if Paddle and Portage did guided tours on this section. Yes they do! Could they do one tomorrow? Yes they could at a time of their choosing!! Excitement growing, I said we would have to check with S&V and could we let them know later that evening? Yes, I could.
With R keen, we laid out the proposal over dinner at the pub and decided, some more enthusiastically than others, that we were up for the challenge. I rang Dan who said to be at Paddle and Portage at 9.00am the next morning.
Here is R's description, from the front seat so to speak, of our guided paddle.
Gathering
on the Banks of the Kangaroo River a short way upriver of historic Hamden
Bridge, at the weir, Dan gave our group of 5 some instruction on the riverbank (stressing the occupant of the rear seat in a canoe always calls the shots) before launching the canoes. We spent about 20 minutes in the water below the weir endeavouring to put into practice the theory we had learnt on the bank . Dan then led us downstream and under the bridge and had us pull in so he could explain the hazards of the first rapid and which line to take.
This would be a somewhat different
experience to the sit-in kayaks we were used to, with the added option of
kneeling or sitting in a canoe. Also, this was one occasion when being
the 5th wheel had its advantages since I got to occupy the lead
canoe with Dan and I could just follow instruction, putting all faith
into the fact that Dan knew what he was doing and I didn’t need to
worry. This did mean however it was always the first canoe into the rapids.
Even though they were low grade rapids they were plenty rapid enough for we
grey haired warriors. Dan steered a course for us through
each of the three rapids and we all made it safe and sound, expletives galore
coming from one of the canoes, all still in the upright position and feeling
exhilarated. There was no shortage of captains however, since two of the
canoes had two captains each reinforcing Daniel's comment that tandem canoes were
sometimes labelled divorce boats.
We
continued on our paddle, spotting water dragons along the way, to Bendeela
campground where Paddle and Portage had a vehicle and trailer waiting to
transport us back to Kangaroo Valley Township. It was an outstanding
adventure enjoyed by all and we were very glad to have had Dan of Paddle and
Portage as our tour guide. We can highly recommend this experience.
We
celebrated our achievements at the pub and set off to our accommodations for a
good nights sleep in readiness for our kayak camp adventure to begin the
following day.
In my excitement and trepidation I didn't remember to turn on the GoPro until after we were at the bottom of the first rapid. Also, I don't know what I did but the last portion of the footage is sped up.
Many thanks to Daniel for arranging a tour for us at such short notice. It was a splendid way for flat water kayaks to experience this very attractive section of the river. If we had attempted it in our kayaks I think, other than L, the rest of us would have been dumped in the first rapid.
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
