Friday 23 November 2018

Friday 16 November 2018 Glenelg River Day 4: Lasletts Canoe Camp to Donovans Landing

The worst night of the whole trip.  The site I chose gave us a room with a view, unfortunately I failed to notice the ground was a bit dippy and my top mattress and me kept sliding off the thermarest which left me on an odd angle or sometimes tipping me, mattressless altogether into the middle of the tent. And even worse, no bush chorus to take my mind off things - no koalas grunting, no fish plopping and feeding along the edge, no animals rustling in the undergrowth, no possums fighting (no possums at all) - nothing to drown out the sound of snoring coming from various tents including my own.

KT was up with the Golden Whistler (that had been singing to us the evening before) and took some early morning photos.



Looking downstram


Our camp at Lasletts



As we were breakfasting the fisherpeople returned back down the track and ghosted through camp, heading up and down river. Lasletts was proving not to be a 'remote' canoe camp, more of a well trodden pathway.
Just as we were ready to depart a parks truck arrived and KT and I accosted the ranger re the stinky loo at Pattersons and the extremely full one here at Lasletts. He informed us that the Pattersons long drop had been pumped out the morning before and he was escorting the truck, "oh look, here it comes down the track now", to pump out this one. So we were leaving at the right time.

We started paddling sometime between 9.30 to 10.00am. Perhaps J&J or KT can remember the time.
Where is our CKC timekeeper when needed??


L, about to commence the day's paddling


Look, no hands required! J&J make it look soooo easy


Nearly all gorge country now




We got intermittent relief from the oncoming breeze as the river changed direction


And the river continued to widen


"How are you going back there KT?" who was still mainly paddling


We were well and truly into water skiing water now and were supposed to keep to the right of the green markers and travel at no more than 8 knots per hour!


The scenery continued to enchant



Coming up to the Princess Margaret Rose Cave landings where we had planned to stop for a coffee at the tea shop until the young couple from Lasletts who had hiked there the previous afternoon said it sold nothing but cold drinks and thawed/re frozen icecreams.


I tried to pull out just in front of the moored house boat on a shelving bit of what turned out to be knee depth mud - again.  Luckily I had only put one leg down and the other was free.  L was able to come along side and steady my boat as I heaved/jumped myself awkwardly back in. So no break or caves tour for us.

L checking the map for the next landing point - Dry Creek, on the border. Another 3kms


so onwards we paddled


Once round the next corner we felt the full force of the head wind which was blowing up the river from the coast approx 13kms downstream


 The shacks at Dry Creek hove into view




1hour and 40mins after we left Lasletts we arrived at Dry Creek. There was a boat ramp a couple of shacks down from the red shed, but a man and his dog were about to launch their tinny so L&I and KT paddled back up to this hard packed (bliss) beach on the upstream side of the red shack. Bees were swarming all over the damp sand/pebble mix where we landed and we had to tread warily. KT thought they might be after fresh water and sacrificed some of hers but they weren't interested. What they were interested in remains a mystery.  Very clean and new public loos were appreciated by us all.


Once the man and his dog vacated the launching ramp the QE3 pulled in and tied up at the jetty beside the ramp.


After 40mins of lounging in the sun, out of the breeze, and chewing the fat with a kayak fisherman, we set forth once more


In the distance we saw what looked like a piece of modern aboriginal rock art, high in the cliffs. KT zoomed in


And then some more, to find it was a cut out bolted onto the rock.


Going passed the outskirts of Donovans landing was this quirky shack


Drawing closer to the boat ramp


We passed more interesting arrangements, some of which look lived in


while the next one along is slowly collapsing into the water. I wonder who cleans up the resultant mess?


There was a boat ramp and a lovely new large jetty a couple of buildings further down from the collapsing shack. KT, L&I pulled in a the old slipway beach as J&J moored to the jetty. If I use the times on KT's pics, we departed Lasletts at 12.55am and and went past the above shack at 3.45am which means we did 6.8kms (or 7.82kms measured on google earth) in two hours 10mins if you take out the 40min stop at Dry Creek. That is well over 3km and hour into a head wind...hmmmm, doesn't seem right.

The upshot of all that musing is that I have no idea when we finished or how long we took.  Perhaps KT and J&J could help.
Anyway we were just tucking into our lunch at the picnic table overlooking the new jetty when the young couple from Lazletts arrived, having left some time after us and having paddled non-stop to Donovans.  The young man only remembered his lesson about tying on as he stepped out of the boat (his partner having already disembarked) and managed to scrabble back in as it started to drift away.
After tying it to the jetty they joined us for a chat and the girl picked KT's brain about the Mont Blanc walk. However they did not stay long  and did not eat anything as they had to get the canoe, which they'd hired, back to Nelson by a certain time and they still had nearly 8kms to go into an increasing head wind.

As lunch drew to a close we started to seriously discuss our next move. Whether to continue the paddle to Simpson's Landing or to call it quits at Donovans. We were reluctant to call it quits, but when we worked out how long it would take to paddle the remaining distance, unload the boats, pack all our gear into the cars, load the boats, retrieve KT's car from Forest Camp South and drive to Bridgewater Bay we realised we wouldn't make our dinner booking. So John called the bloke who had dropped them at Moleside to see if he could pick J and L up from Donovans. He couldn't, but told John to hang tight, he'd try a mate. Within a few minutes he had rung back saying someone would be there in 5 minutes. And they were.  Whilst J and L were away KT and I unloaded our boats and carried them from the slipway up to the road. We still had L's boat to carry up when the lads arrived back. With our boats loaded, KT and L went to see if they could be of use to J&J as they loaded the QE3 at the boat ramp as I finished tying our boats down.

With KT on board, we left J&J loading their gear into the car and we drove to Forest Camp South to retrieve KT's car.  We then had a very pretty hour or so drive to Bridgewater Bay and our nights lodging at the Seaview Lodge B&B, run by quite an eccentric ( I want to say old, but I can't because he's my age) man. When we arrived he wasn't there and some fellow guests told us our room numbers.
We all had time for long, luxuriant showers - they were excellent - buckets of water - and a glass of wine in the sunroom. Wine finished, it was time to amble along the bay for dinner.
 After a cup of tea back at the BB and listening to Jan winkle the owners life story out of him - she is a master 'winkler' and a joy to behold when 'winkling', the more absurd the utterings, so the twinkle in her eye increases - we retired to a REAL and comfortable bed for the night.

 Lastly, a couple of evening shots of the bay the B&B overlooks.



After enjoying a good breakfast, cut short by the owner whipping off our plates and cups due to his desire to pay the 'staff' (two young girls) no more overtime than he had too, we went our separate ways. KT drove straight home, again stopping in Inverleigh and this time trying the bakery. And L and I wended our way up to Darraweit Guim via Warrnambool, where we caught up with some old friends whom we had not seen for 12 years and with whom we had stayed at the Seaview Lodge 15 or more years ago. I know not what J&J did.

Another fantastic paddle crossed off the bucket list.  Many thanks to KT, who suggested and organised the trip.


6.8 kms (7.82 Google earth)
46.5 kms in total (Parks notes)

Thursday 22 November 2018

Thursday 15 November 2018 Glenelg River Day 3: Forest Camp South to Lasletts Canoe Camp

After another night of  being sung to sleep by the discordant tones of the Glenelg bush chorus, we woke once more with wet tents and a busy morning ahead of us. Tonight we would all be kayak camping. So tents had to be packed up, food and gear sorted and stuff not needed stowed in the cars. KT and L then did the long car shuffle into Simpson's Landing on the outskirts of Nelson.


Whilst we waited for their return J&J and I carted all the gear down to the landing and packed what we could into the boats


When KT & L returned we promptly set off around 10.00am. J had kindly offered to load all our water supplies onto the QE3. An offer which we all gratefully accepted. Even so L was fully loaded, carrying the tent and sleeping gear only, with water sloshing over the hatch in front of his seat. Poor Bluey had to cope with the rest of our stuff and me!







Most of the cliffs were undercut



Our first and only Koala for the day






 The scenery was proving diverse and spectacular



Love these sculptural pics of KT's



Around 11.30am we pulled in at Wilson Hall for morning tea




Oooh, I do love a boat ramp


J having a nap in the sun and broiling in his rain jacket.


At 12.20pm we set off again, the day growing quite warm.

Catching up to L


who, at 1.00pm,  was leaning on Bowds Landing studying the map


Still feeling quite fresh and the weather being favourable - we were getting a great assist from the breeze at our backs - it was decided to push on, this being our longest day on the water and not knowing what the wind would do later in the day.


We encountered a varying mix of forest and cliffs on our journey


The scenery changing around each corner


Doing it easy in the QE3 - look at that armchair ride :) . Methinks I can detect a little boat envy!



One or two swallows flew out of every 'cave' we approached. How come we have hundreds in the shed? Maybe because they get drowned on a regular basis on the Glenelg?




KT having a break from pedalling and working on her paddling technique. She paddled for about half the day.


Still feeling good, we skipped McLennans Punt


and pushed on passed some fabulous scenery


and pulled into Pattersons Canoe Camp about 1.40pm.


Looking down river as we crossed to Pattersons


The only canoe camp with little huts


Amazing tree, with the three trunks growing from the horizontal one.


L warned me as I came in that it was muddy and suggested I try disembarking closer to the landing.
I promptly sunk up to my knees in mud, just as he had down at the other end of the little beach. It took some effort to haul myself out of the water.  It was with trepidation that I thought about the first jetty re-entry we would have to do :( :(


The long picnic table.  The canoe camps take up to twenty people with one long table and a couple of fire places. Oh, and one, in this case, very smelly long drop.


Lunch lasted just over and hour


Except for the loo (which we found out later had just been pumped out, perhaps explaining the pong) -oh,  and the mud - it was a very pleasant camp and the closest to the water we had found.




So, lunch over it was time to get back into the boats :(. L devised a plan for me. With Bluey pulled up along the jetty he knelt down and held onto the side handle of Bluey nearest the jetty and J&J in the QE3 came along the outside and held onto the outside handle of Bluey, with KT on the outside of them providing extra support. The plan was that I then lightly step down into my boat and gracefully sit down.  What actually happened was that I stepped one foot gingerly down into the boat and thence fell, in a most ungraceful and ungainly manner, the rest of the way - thus creating a minor tsunami which added even more mud to the shoreline. But gamely steadied by those aboard the QE3, KT and L on the jetty I stayed aboard and after some flopping and heaving managed to seat myself in an upright position, ready to paddle. Thanks to you all, especially J&J who must have viewed my body toppling toward them with some alarm!

Next it was L's turn. I pulled out and Lawrence pulled his boat round and into the space vacated by me and Bluey.  Without the benefit of someone hanging onto his boat from the jetty he managed to do what I had so spectacularly failed - get down into his boat, with the minimum of fuss, in a smooth, if not entirely graceful manner.

With L aboard, we said goodbye to Pattersons Canoe Camp around 2.45pm and continued our journey downstream

 Spectacular cliffs were now appearing at regular intervals



Detail of the bottom of the cliff




We paddled on, the breeze still pushing us along on what turned out to be a beautiful day



Sleeping polar bears?


Getting out at Sandy Waterholes for a quick leg stretch - can't resist a boat ramp.


Sandy Waterholes. Can't remember if we all had a leg stretch or not


 Anyway, continuing on


And this was the last photo my camera managed before running out of battery


Luckily, KT's was still going strong




About 4.20pm ish, pulling into Lasletts, our destination for the night.




A perfect day's paddling completed. Not to hot, not to cold, just right, a light breeze at our backs for most of the journey and ever changing scenery to gaze upon. And last but not least, the enjoyment of good company. Fantastic.

View from the top of the landing


Looking downstream in the evening light


Looking upstream


With a young couple already in residence, we set up camp at the other end of the clearing. J outside their tiny tent


We made liberal use of the table for 20


 It was cold, but we were too fagged to hunt for firewood and instead gave our firelighters to the young couple who had gathered lots of wood but were having trouble setting it alight. They kindly invited us to join them around their fire once they had cooked their dinner.


I must say, I was a little peeved. Lasletts is listed as a canoe camp and only a one night stay permitted. Not long after we set up two separate groups of people walked down the track and through our camp, one lot disappearing upstream and the other downstream. A little later 3 men appeared, carrying heaps of camping gear down the track, clearly intending to stay a couple of nights and muttering, when they saw us, "we booked this camp", "so did we", replied KT. They set up camp close to the young couple. After separate, but friendly visits from Jan and myself, they upstakes and moved their camp out of site further downstream.  I like to think it was because two old ladies desiring a quiet night had the power to frighten them off :)
Just after dark the two groups of fisherpeople drifted back through camp and disappeared back up the track.

Dinner: Everyone resorted to dehydrated delights this night. However we did enjoy smoked mussels and baby (as in tiny) pickled cucumbers, courtesy of Jan and some brie and biscuits courtesy of KT (and the imbibers had managed to fit quite a bit of red wine into their boats)  before tackling the dehydrated stuff. L had a two serve of Kung Pao Chicken to himself and declared it very edible.
KT and I shared a chicken and mushroom risotto and declared it passable and J&J had their special mince & vegie mixture. The trick John reckons, is to leave the mixture stand for twice as long as recommended.

After dark, KT produced some sparklers, nearly as old as the recipient, to celebrate the birthday after which we finished another nights fine dining experience by eating the unmelted block of Toblerone.

KT and L were early to bed and J&J and I joined the young couple beside their fire for a little while to learn they had never canoed before and had started at Moleside and were continuing to Nelson and to hear about their adventures thus far. Lesson - secure your boat firmly. The bloke had had a long swim across the river to retrieve their canoe.
By 10.00pm we were all tucked up in our tents.


Trip Notes
Put in: Forest Camp South
To: Lasletts Canoe Camp
14.6 kms (Parks notes)  (15.4 kms Google earth)
6hrs 20mins including approx 2hrs of breaks