Monday 24/10 & Tuesday 25/10 Chatham Historic Boatyard and Museum

OAfter mentioning on the blog that we were going to Chatham for two nights to visit the dockyard, I received an email from George informing me that he had looked it up on the Internet and the average length of a visit was two hours!

Arrived at the dockyard at 11.00 on Saturday and join the queue for tickets, surrounded by mostly young mothers (and the odd father) and their children - we'd forgotten the school holidays. After purchasing our tickets and being herded downstairs one of the first exhibits we came across was this model of the Victory - which was built at Chatham.

Very crudely done, according to L. Even so, he spent 20 mins looking at it.

The figurehead and so,e of the rigging - which L. has had to produce in miniature.

Knowing L  spent 20 mins on one of the first exhibits, you can get an imagine our progress for the remainder of the day, and no stopping for refreshments or lunch!

The Assistant Queens Harbourmasters Office ca 1770 which seems to have sunk a bit if you look at the angle of the balcony. Check out the rubbish bin

Looking down onto the Medway from the above office

Roof,of,one of the covered slips

Highlight for me was the Ropery where rope is stil commercially made. Rope has been made on the site since 1618, but the present 1/4 mile long building was erected in 1778

A ship like the Victory required about 50 kms of different size ropes.  Speaking of which, the Chatham Ropery made all the ropes required for the Victory when she was built and com sooner and has been making rope for her ever since - 250 years.

By the time we had finshed looking at the small ropery next door, I was done with all things naval and nautical, besides being really hungry and dehydrated. So after 4 1/2 hours of being a dutiful partner I left Lawrence to it and walked back to the quays where I had a coffee and a salad before returning to the Ship and Trades.

Lawrence didn't return until after six, having being forcibly evicted from the model boat and ship paintings exhibition.

We returned to the dockyards this morning, yay, and besides other stuff did a tour of a submarine, double yay, and watched a a rope making demo in the long Ropery Room, and that was fantastic.

A walk in front of the Officers Houses, now private residences

Bloody Autumn has finally arrived, just as we are leaving

We left the dockyards after 2.00 and started heading toward Heathrow

That really is all folks!

Holiday and blog is over

Sunday 23/10 Cambridge to Chatham

Woke up late and somewhat refreshed. Plans to have a quick look around Cambridge were aborted when we discovered that Everyman, his dog and children were out and about on this first Sunday of half term, and a sunny and mild one to boot. We pulled into a quiet side street and with the aid our of our trusty, old and disintegrating road atlas, plotted a route south, once again on A and B roads with tantalising names such as the Fen Causeway and The Roman Road. The A and B roads may take twice or even 4 times as long as the freeways but you get to see the countryside up close and the same with the villages as you negotiate their twisting and sometimes narrow little streets.

We journied south via Linton, Saffron Walden, Thaxted, Great Dunmorrow and Takeley to the National Trusts Hatfield Forest, designated as such by Henry I in 1100 (which translates as he made it a royal hunting preserve). Hatfield Forest was chosen as a destination because it is a '403 ha National Nature Reserve and a biological site of special scientific interest in Essex'.

Excited by the photos on the website and thinking we would see some stands of what Australians would call old growth forest in splendid autumninal colour, we arrived  to find this special biological site was heavily grazed by cattle, had more open country than forest; and open county and forest alike was seething with with people, pushers, kids, bikes and off lead dogs shitting all over the place. Not our idea of a nature reserve at all! In fact we were rather gobsmacked.  We drove in, needing a loo stop and followed a conga line of cars through the 'forest'

To a carpark with nearby loos and a tea shop overlooking a lake designed by Capability Brown

Thankfully there was no queue for the loos, but the queue for the tea shop was out the door and around the corner. Across the lawned area was a lonely, unpatronised food van. Upon investigation it turned out to be a National Trust food van selling only water, soft drink, filtered coffee and venison baps.

The coffee was good and the venison fillet baps were excellent. But I'm not sure how the NT expects to make money not selling tea to the Poms! Maybe they had run out, the NT rep grilling the venison fillets said it was one of the busiest days at Hatfield Forest they'd had all year, including summer and as it was a fine sunny day people were taking full advantage of it before winter really sets in.

Now both L and I know England is heaving with people - 60million plus people in something approx the size of Victoria, but as you all know we don't do seething very well and the thought of taking a walk in the woods with a squillion other people, kids and dogs didn't appeal, specially as you would have to watch where you put your feet every step of the way.

Having said all that, one of the amazing things about the UK is that you can get away from the maddening crowd if you pick your time and place.  I'll never forget a magical coastal walk we did in 2006 from Salcombe to Hope Cove and we only saw about 6 other people on the 7 mile walk. And last year, while on the weekend there were people everywhere on the Monday we nearly had the Yorkshire Dales to ourselves.

Once back in the car we decided it was time to get serious about getting around London to Chatham, Located on the Medway. After negotiating the road and its assorted traffic out of Hatfield National Forest

We headed for the M11 and hurtled down the highway at (after 7 weeks on a Narrowboat) truely terrifying speeds and in 37 minutes we were on the Dartford Bridge crossing the Thames somewhere to the east of London

Sometime after that the road plunged down into a tunnel under the Medway and shortly after exiting the tunnel we reached our destination, The Ship and Trades pub overlooking Chatham Marina and a 10 minute walk from the historic dockyard and museum.

The view from our window was an unexpected bonus

Looking across to St Mary's Island

After settling in and a cup of tea to calm the M11 stress levels we headed out to orient ourselves.

Chatham docks are not as desolate as I thought they would be. The two quays next to The Ship and Trades have been developed ; the usual quay development - shops, bars, restaurants underneath and accommodation above with a modern tower block on th end of each quay. A further two quays are still awaiting development. At the end of the final quay is the Medway.  Looking down the Medway with Castle Upnor on the left.

Between the quays and the historic boat years is a huge DFO type 2 storey shopping complex. Which seems a bit at odds with the trendified quay area.

After checking out the quays and docks still to be developed and looked down on the Medway  we walked down to the historic dockyard and returned to have dinner. Lawrence spent what was left of the evening  researching what he wants to see tomorrow. A big day ahead tomorrow!

Saturday 22/10 Mercia Marina, Willington to Cambridge

As you can imagine we were up very early, packing and cleaning (well, I have to admit Tim and Mike did most of the cleaning). We did receive a short reprieve when a truck and a crane arrived to do this at 7.30am, meaning Justin couldn't move Aqua Life onto the services jetty for a pump out and diesel fill as early as he wanted.

By the time the boat, a wide beam, had been swung around to here at 8.00 Justin had AL at the services point.

The wide exam is off to Reading, which, I think is on the Thames. Last week the company which specialises in NB moves, lifted and trucked one to Scotland and moved across the channel are not uncommon.

By 9.00 we had said our goodbyes to Aqua Life, Justin and Lynden; Mike had kindly stuffed all our luggage into his car and had driven around to the Marina reception where we met him and unloaded and where we had arranged to be picked up by Enterprise Car Hire. After saying farewell to Mike and Tim we waited in the cold for Enterprise. 

Other years, when we dealt with the Burton on Trent branch of Enterprise, pick up had been at a stated time, and they were always there on time, even a little early. This year, having to deal with the Pride Park, Derby branch they would only give a two hour window!

At 10.50 we rang the Pride Park branch to find out what was happening to be told that the driver had come, waited for 20 minutes at reception and when we didn't turn up had left, and was on his way back to Pride Park and wasn't coming back. I pointed out that we had been at reception since 9.00 and that if the driver had indeed been there we would have seen him and he couldn't have failed to see us and our luggage. Again the driver denied we had been there and I said we had been there since 9.00 am, had plenty of witnesses to prove it and we were f........ Freezing and would someone please come and get us, where upon I,was told that he wouldnt deal with people who swore and was hung up upon.

While I was momentarily left speechless L. said quietly 'you could have handled that a bit better'. Instead of sending me into an apoplectic orbit, his comment calmed me down and I handed the phone to him and said you deal with them.

To cut an already overlong story short Lawrence ended up ringing for a taxi which, I might add turned up at reception within 10mins and had no trouble locating us, and GBP 20 later we were at Pride Park, Derby.  Whereupon our dealings with them sank even lower when they couldn't process our prepaid car hire and when eventually they had sorted it insist d on charging us a GBP 50 one way hire fee instead of the GBP 32 stated on our copy of the booking confirmation. Lawrence, who just wanted 'outta there' stomped on my foot as I was inhaling prior to entering the lists again, so with grinding teeth I paid up and we got out of there as fast as we could.  From something the person who was showing Lawrence over our car said, L thinks the driver probably went to the wrong Marina.

So with bad tastes in our mouths, we left Derby behind us and we headed for Cambridge, via Leicestershire on deliberately chosen A and B roads. The soft, beguiling countryside and quaint and quirky villages had a soothing effect and we were soon cheerful once more.

Driving through the gently rolling and clearly prosperous farmland we reached the market town of Melton Mowwbray made famous to me at least, through the books of Georgette Heyer and for being the centre of the Quorn Hunt country. From there, and due to a small error on the part of the navigator we went east instead of south and as we were driving through another quaint little village we passed and attractive looking pub with a carpark (the carpark being the most important factor) into which L turned. providential, as the meal we had at the Berkley Arms was supberb and easily the best meal we've had in the UK (sorry Tim) and reasonably priced.

The accent of the two young women serving behind the bar was unlike anything we'd heard in the Midlands or Oop North and immediately let us know we were in 'county' country and a reading of the menu only confirmed this.

The contrast made us chuckle. The food really was delicious and we learnt upon leaving the pub is listed in the Michelin Guide and more importantly for the more ordinary among us, Alistair Sawdays Pubs And Inns. 

It was while in the pub having lunch that the navigation hiccup was discovered. Lawrence asked how far we were from Cambridge, a bit of discussion among the locals followed and the general consensus seemed to be 2 to 2 1/2 hours.  Strange we thought, we were only an hour and a bit away back at Melton Mowbray!  Luckily L was so delighted with his luncheon experience, he, most unusually, dismissed my georgraphical whoops you as a mere bagatelle.

On our way again, this time heading in the right direction, we entered the County Of Rutland, the setting of some of Jilly Coopers, horsey, scandal ridden and funny novels. We soon left it again as it one of the smallest counties in England, being something like 18 miles long at the longest point and 14 miles wide and the widest point, but according to Jilly Cooper, full of prosperous people doing outrageous things with or to the neighbours, and the milkman.

By the time we got to the hotel in Cambridge we were both flagging and only had enough energy to take our shoes off Before flaking out on the bed.  Woke up after 8.00, ordered a couple of sandwiches and we were back in bed by 10.00. So much for seeing the sights of Cambridge.

Ed Murrow was correct. Rhonda wins again!

Friday 21/10. Branston Water Park to Mercia Marina

A lovely sleep in this morning followed by crispy bacon, perfectly fried eggs, mushrooms and tomatoes  prepared by Lawrence. Reluctantly we cast off at 10.45.

I missed most of the mornings travel. Once again L and I left the last part of our travels unplanned and accommodation not even though of. And as always seem to happen to us, school holidays started this week. So most of the morning I was incarcerated in the bowels of the boat trawling the Internet looking for accommodation.  First plan of a night in the Cotswolds was abandoned after the 4th sorry we're full.  Second plan of a night in the south of the Peak District was abandoned also after the 4th sorry we are full.  More discussion with L was required. What about Cambridge? Found a vacancy on the second try - phew.

Next was two nights at Chatham (historic boatyard and ships - don't you know!).  Yes, only 3 phone calls needed. Lastly a bed at Heathrow for our last night.

4 nights accommodation at half term - we could have had Aqua Life for another week and a half!

I did get to help Mike with the first lock of the day

From then on I had my head down and didn't resurface until we were about to moor for lunch at Willington.  In the Green Dragon about to get on with lunch.

Departing Willington

Nearing the turn into the marina

Made somewhat awkward by this boat and butty. FYI the butty (unpowered NB that is breasted up or towed by the other, powered NB). The butty is the one with the huge wooden tiller.

Making the turn, and no we didn't hit anything.

We were all a bit glum at this point

We turned right onto the Aqua Narrowboat moorings and that was it,  trip over :(  Lawrence drowned his sorrows in the shower and I drowned mine in the laundrette and shower block. And Tim and Mike wandered over to the restaurant to book us in for dinner.

However we had a lovely last supper together. Lots of laughs and remember when's and miracle of miracles a politics free night.

8 miles, 3 locks in 4 3/4 hours

And according to Lawrence, and pending verification by me, the grand totals are:

499.5 miles, 257 locks, 73 lift and swing bridges in 274 hours

Good night and good luck

Last quiz question, whose tag line was that

Thursday 20/10. Bridge 69 to Branston Water Park

We managed it! We cast off at 8.00am as Lawrence had decreed.

Autumn colours are really only just starting - too late for us

Going through Rugeley we spotted this guy in his back yard and what was on his arm made us all fall over each other as we scrambled for cameras

Formerly the Armitage (as in dummies - we had just passed the factory) Tunnel. Subsidence caused by coal mining necessitated the removal of the top of the tunnel

I love this bridge

And another bridge

Some more autumn colour

A squirrel, I hope you can see him. They are tricky little fellas to photograph

A peaceful stretch through Ravenshaw Wood

And then this little gem of a montage in the garden of Shade House at the lock of the same name

It was after the last photo was taken that the iPad informed me its memory was full and it wasn't going to take any more pictures however many times I depressed the shutter button :( 

After a bit of tantrum throwing (on my part)  we worked our way down through two more locks and moored up and walked back to Fradley Junction to have lunch at The Swan.  I spent most of lunch deleting heaps of photos between mouthfuls of food but I was only able to squeeze a few more photos out of the iPad.

We are well and truely back in the flat lands

Tim and Mike working Aqua Life through Alrewas Lock with Tim being 'easily' distracted, this time by his fan club.

We had decided to push on today as far as we could so we can have an easy day of it tomorrow.

Just below Alrewas Lock the Canal joins the River Trent for a short stretch and this is where it leaves us again

Crisi go up to where we moored on our last night last year. Stopping was briefly discussed but Lawrence opted to go on

We were only a little further along when it started to rain. We had a cold and wet 15 mins and thankfully it stopped because we had another couple of miles to do.

With the rain gone and some late sun appearing, the evening light was superb, but wouldn't you l ow it, the iPad was refusing to cooperate again.

Went down through Tatenhill Lock and unfortunately no one was at home when I returned Julia's cool back and ice brick she had kindly lent us.

We moored up around 6.00, hanging off the end of the Branston Waterpark visitor moorings, with our stern 3 feet out from the bank. Lawrence has put in a mammoth effort today. 9 hours at the tiller and except for the odd quick nature break, or waiting on a lock landing, the only time off for him was lunch.

While Tim cobbled together a very decent meal from fridge remains I deleted more photos and a few apps. I don't understand the math; I deleted over 100 pics at lunch time, but the iPad only let me take 4 more :(

Anyway, hopefully with what I've deleted tonight the iPad will let me take a few photos tomorrow of our last day on Aqua Life. If not this will be the end of the blog.

16miles, 12 locks in 10 hours

Wednesday 19/10 pt 2

Eventually the water tank was full and we cruised past the junction to the village of Great Haywood

After mooring in front of the boat in the previous photo, we walked over the Essex Bridge to the grounds of Shugborough Hall. Tim and Mike

Unfortunately the house and gardens are closed to the public for winter and as the whole shebang is being transferred from the Staffordshire County to The National Trust. However we had a very pleasant loop walk through a mixture of park and farm, catching glimpses of the stately from afar

As we walked through the farm

Two longhorn cows to whom Tim spent an age talking

Sheep in the fields. Thank god our walk didn't take us that way, we'd have never got Tim out of the paddock

Tim and Mike talking to the heifers this time, as we followed a trail along the banks of the Trent

Cruising once more as L wanted to put a few more miles behind us. Canalside cottages above Colwich Lock

Leaving Colwich Lock, with four boats waiting their turn to go through the lock

With the Trent running alongside us, the section of the canal is very attractive

We moored up at 4.30, again with a train line, but at least it's a field away, not in our laps like last nights! Sunset from our mooring

I was on cooking duty tonight. Snags, rhubarb and cherry pie and ice cream from the farmshop. Accompanied by an attempt at caramelised leeks and smashed veg. I think I may be giving Australian cuisine a bad name. Polite inquiry fromTim " Oh, is this how you eat veg in Australia, Margy?"

We have two days to go and 25 miles to do. So a resolution was made for an early start tomorrow. We aim to be away by 8

7 1/2 miles, 4 locks, lots of stops in 7 hours